Chapter 7: A Trek through the Hills of Bukittingi

The Medicine Man Recommends Leeches

This is only half of us!

Tuesday, April 7

Our two day boat ride was over, but to get from Pekanbaru to Bukittingi, we (myself, Tim, and ten other travelers) hired a small van. Far too much money changed hands and the twelve of us were quite crushed in the tiny van, but it was much more flexible and faster than taking the bus. We stopped a number of times to snap photos or eat. All it took was a cry of Berhenti! and the driver would stop. We cruised all day through lush rain forests and rich fields, finally arriving in Bukittingi. Sunburned and tired after the long ride and the two day journey up the river, we all relaxed with a beer in a local bar for the first time since leaving Tanjun Penang three days earlier. 
 
 

Things to do in Bukittingi: 
 
 

  • Eat – The food is great, with lots of fresh fruit, and wonderful food stalls and markets. I drank a kind of tea dessert which is a sweetened tea with merangued egg white. Yum! We also ate an excellent omelet type thing called murtabak with a really fiery sauce with red and green chile pepper rings floating in it.
  • The Zoo – the animals were mothbitten and in tiny cages, but it was still fun and the zoo was in one of the prettiest parts of town. 
  • Shop – Bukittingi is a gathering place for Indonesian tourists and merchants, so the market was full of interesting things to buy. One gentleman was selling herbal medicines, leeches, and other magic cures.
  • Architecture - Bukittingi is home to a unique Sumatran style of elevated homebuilding that features sloped roofs with large extensions on either end.
  • Trek through the hills – Hey, we did this too, thanks to a recommendation and directions in Tim's copy of Moon Publications Indonesia Guide. We actually took two hikes.
 
The author and children

Trekking through a village

Boy and Cow

Woman in traditional dress
 
 

In fact, it was the second trek that remains one of the trip’s finest memories. Tim and I took a bus ride several miles out of town, then hiked for about 4 hours on a series of dirt roads that intersected a number of small villages. It was still Ramadan, so many people were dressed up. Towards the end we passed a cow auction. During the entire trek, small children constantly cried out 'Hallo mister' or 'Foto.' We indulged a few with some of the photos here. 

I've said this other places, but I'll say it here too. The right travel guide can really make a difference. I used an old copy of Lonely Planet's South-East Asia on a Shoestring, and it was quite good for most things. But it was Moon Publications Indonesia Guide that really shined in Indonesia. It has quite a lot of cultural information and often would mention side trips or sights that were not in the other guides, such as the trek we took here.

Man and cow

Return to the Introduction

Continue on to the Island of Nias
 
 

Copyright 1997 by Jason Thomas James. All rights reserved.